LÉONIE & CO
Contemporary Luxury Menswear
Studio Nayéh Concept Project
Product Development | Pattern Development | Sampling & Fit Validation | Technical Development | Sourcing | Manufacturing
THE PROJECT
LÉONIE & CO. is a luxury children’s wear concept developed around timeless design, refined craftsmanship and childhood comfort
The collection combines elevated occasionwear with versatile wardrobe pieces, using delicate fabrics, considered proportions and refined detailing to create garments designed for both special occasions and everyday memories
The capsule is designed as a cohesive wardrobe, with each piece balancing elegance, movement and practicality for children
PROJECT OVERVIEW
NUMBER OF STYLES
SIX
CATEGORY
CHILDREN'S WEARPOSITIONING
OCCASIONWEARDEVELOPMENT
PORTUGAL
THE BRIEF
The objective was to create a premium children’s collection that felt:
Elegant but comfortable | Refined but playful | Timeless without feeling traditional
Designed for movement | Appropriate for special occasions | Suitable for premium commercial production
The collection was developed around natural-looking fabrics, soft structure, delicate detailing and silhouettes that allow children to move comfortably while maintaining the intended proportions
OUR APPROACH
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The collection was defined as a six-style children’s capsule combining occasionwear, tailoring and everyday luxury.
We established:
+ Product specifications: Signature occasion dress, tailored set, floral dress, linen shirt and short, formal occasion dress and knit set.
+ Silhouette direction: Soft volume, refined tailoring and age-appropriate proportions.
+ Garment proportions: Body length, sleeve volume, waist placement, skirt fullness and overall balance developed around children’s proportions.
+ Functional requirements: Comfort, movement, ease of dressing and durability.
+ Construction direction: Soft tailoring, gathered construction, structured bodices, lightweight layering and comfortable closures.
+ Design detailing: Bows, buttons, collars, sleeves, appliqué, gathered sections and refined finishing.
+ Production intent: A premium children’s collection designed for consistent commercial manufacturing.
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The material development focused on creating a balance between luxury appearance, softness, movement, durability and child comfort. Each fabric and component was assessed according to its intended garment, construction method and age-specific requirements.
Dress & Occasionwear Fabrics:
+ Cotton batiste, cotton voile, poplin and fine lawn assessed for softness, breathability, opacity and suitability for structured children’s dresses.
+ Silk blends and lightweight satin evaluated for drape, surface appearance, seam behaviour and comfort against the skin.
+ Taffeta and structured cotton qualities considered where greater volume and shape retention were required.
+ Fabric weight and stiffness assessed against gathered skirts, pleats, puff sleeves and layered silhouettes to prevent excessive bulk.
+ Shrinkage and dimensional stability considered before pattern finalisation.
Linen & Natural Everyday Fabrics:
+ Linen and linen-blend qualities assessed for fibre composition, weight, softness, drape and breathability.
+ Washed and structured linen options evaluated according to whether the garment required a relaxed or more defined silhouette.
+ Creasing behaviour considered as part of the product design rather than treated purely as a finishing issue.
+ Fabric strength and abrasion resistance assessed for garments intended for repeated children’s wear.
Floral & Decorative Materials:
+ Printed florals and decorative fabrics assessed for motif scale, repeat, direction and placement across the garment.
+ Embroidery and appliqué materials evaluated for softness, edge finish and weight.
+ Decorative elements positioned to avoid uncomfortable contact with the skin or areas subject to excessive movement.
+ Placement planned around seams, gathers, waistlines and closures to maintain a clean finished appearance.
Linings & Internal Layers
+ Lightweight cotton and breathable lining qualities selected according to garment construction and skin contact.
+ Lining weight matched to the outer fabric to prevent pulling, bunching or unnecessary garment weight.
+ Layering tested for transparency, movement and comfort.
+ Internal finishes developed to minimise exposed seams and abrasive components.
Buttons, Closures & Trims:
+ Natural, resin and fabric-covered buttons assessed according to size, weight, durability and age suitability.
+ Zips, snaps, hooks and other closures selected according to ease of use and secure fastening.
+ Ribbons, bows, piping, elastic and decorative trims assessed for softness, recovery and wash durability.
+ Trim placement considered alongside construction and movement to prevent snagging or discomfort.
Knit & Stretch Qualities:
+ Fine-gauge cotton and cotton-blend knits evaluated for softness, stretch, recovery and dimensional stability.
+ Rib qualities assessed for cuffs, necklines and fitted areas requiring controlled recovery.
+ Knit construction considered in relation to repeated washing, movement and children’s active wear.
+ Button and opening construction reinforced where necessary to maintain durability through repeated use.
Material Testing & Production Suitability:
+ Fabric behaviour assessed through sampling before final material approval.
+ Shrinkage, fraying, seam slippage, opacity, pressing response and surface behaviour considered during development.
+ Material consumption reviewed against the final pattern to establish realistic production requirements.
+ Fabrics and trims selected not simply for appearance, but for their ability to achieve the intended silhouette while remaining practical, comfortable and suitable for production.
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Patterns were developed specifically around children’s proportions, movement, comfort and garment construction, ensuring each style was suitable for both luxury presentation and production.
+ Base Blocks: Age-specific bodice, skirt, sleeve, trouser and short blocks with controlled ease and proportion.
+ Bodices & Dresses: Necklines, armholes, waist placement, princess seams, gathers and skirt volume engineered for correct balance and movement.
+ Sleeves: Cap height, sleeve pitch, volume and cuff proportions adjusted for unrestricted arm movement.
+ Collars & Closures: Collar shapes, neckline curves, button plackets and back openings developed directly into the patterns.
+ Trousers & Shorts: Rise, waist, hip, thigh and leg proportions balanced for sitting, walking and everyday movement.
+ Pattern Engineering: Grainlines, notches, balance marks, seam allowances, hems and construction points prepared for production.
+ Grading: Size development based on children’s growth proportions, with key measurements checked across the full size range.
+ Fit Validation: Patterns refined through sampling to correct fit, proportion, movement and fabric behaviour before final production files were prepared.
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Each style was sampled to validate the pattern, proportions, construction and material behaviour before finalising production.
+ First Sample: Full garment constructed from the developed pattern to assess the intended silhouette and construction.
+ Fit: Chest, waist, shoulder, neckline, armhole, sleeve length and overall garment length checked against the approved measurements.
+ Proportions: Skirt fullness, gathers, pleats, sleeve volume, collars and waist placement reviewed against the design.
+ Movement: Garments tested through sitting, walking and arm movement to ensure appropriate ease and comfort for children.
+ Fabric Behaviour: Drape, volume, shrinkage, seam behaviour, pressing response and interaction between outer fabric and lining assessed.
+ Construction: Closures, seams, hems, gathers, pleats, trims and internal finishing checked for accuracy and durability.
+ Corrections: Fit and construction adjustments transferred back to the master pattern, with the sample re-checked before technical approval.
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The technical package was developed to translate each LÉONIE & CO. design into clear, repeatable production specifications, while retaining the construction and finish expected from luxury children’s wear.
+ Technical Flats: Front and back technical drawings showing seams, panels, pleats, gathers, collars, sleeves, pockets and closures.
+ Measurement Specifications: Detailed POM measurements for chest, waist, hip, shoulder, armhole, sleeve, rise, garment length and key design points.
+ Construction Details: Stitch types, seam allowances, hem depths, gathering ratios, pleat dimensions and construction sequences defined for each style.
+ Materials & BOM: Main fabric, lining, interfacing, buttons, zips, elastic, trims and decorative components documented with quantities and specifications.
+ Labels & Trims: Placement and dimensions for main labels, size labels, care/composition labels and other required branding components.
+ Grading: Final size grading prepared from the approved base size, with children’s growth increments applied across the required range.
+ Production Files: Final CAD patterns, graded sizes, A0 layouts, measurement charts and technical specifications prepared for manufacturing.
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Materials and components were sourced according to the specific construction, comfort and quality requirements of each LÉONIE & CO. style.
+ Main Fabrics: Cotton, linen, silk blends, poplin, voile and occasionwear fabrics selected according to weight, drape, softness, opacity and durability.
+ Linings: Lightweight, breathable lining options matched to each outer fabric and garment construction.
+ Trims: Buttons, zips, elastic, ribbons, piping, lace, embroidery and decorative elements selected for appropriate scale, durability and child comfort.
+ Colour & Finish: Fabric colours, dye lots, prints and surface finishes reviewed for consistency with the collection.
+ Production Quantities: Fabric width, consumption, minimum orders and availability assessed against the final patterns.
+ Supplier Selection: Materials evaluated for quality, consistency, lead time and suitability for repeat production.
+ Costing: Material costs and consumption calculated to establish accurate production costing before manufacturing.
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Production was structured around small-batch luxury children’s wear, with each style manufactured from the approved patterns, specifications and validated samples.
+ Cutting: Fabric laid and cut according to approved production markers, grainlines and pattern pieces.
+ Construction: Dresses, tailoring, shirts, knitwear and separates assembled according to the validated construction methods.
+ Detailing: Gathers, pleats, appliqué, embroidery, collars, cuffs, buttons and decorative trims applied with controlled placement.
+ Pressing & Finishing: Each garment shaped and pressed throughout construction, with final hems, closures and internal finishing completed to specification.
+ Quality Control: Measurements, stitching, alignment, closures, fabric defects, finishing and overall appearance checked against the approved sample.
+ Final Inspection: Garments inspected, finished, labelled and prepared for packaging and delivery.
THE RESULT
The LÉONIE & CO. concept demonstrates a complete development pathway:
CONCEPT
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
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PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
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SAMPLING
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TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT
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SOURCING
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MANUFACTURING
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QUALITY CONTROL
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DELIVERY
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CONCEPT | PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT | PATTERN DEVELOPMENT | SAMPLING | TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT | SOURCING | MANUFACTURING | QUALITY CONTROL | DELIVERY |
THE COLLECTION
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A refined ivory dress with a softly structured bodice, statement sleeves and a full skirt, designed as the signature silhouette of the collection.
Development Focus: Bodice construction | Sleeve volume | Skirt fullness | Lining | Comfort & movement
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A sophisticated children’s tailored look combining a structured jacket with coordinating shorts, bringing a refined yet youthful approach to occasion dressing.
Development Focus: Jacket construction | Collar & lapel | Short proportions | Pocket construction | Internal finishing
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A romantic floral statement dress incorporating decorative detailing and layered volume while maintaining softness and freedom of movement.
Development Focus: Floral placement | Appliqué | Layering | Neckline construction | Fabric behaviour
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A relaxed luxury set designed around natural linen, combining a structured shirt with tailored shorts for a more versatile everyday look.
Development Focus: Collar & placket | Button placement | Waist construction | Proportion | Breathability
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A more formal silhouette featuring refined detailing, defined waist shaping and a structured skirt for special occasions.
Development Focus: Bodice support | Sleeve construction | Waist definition | Skirt structure | Closures & finishing
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A soft coordinated knit look designed around comfort and versatility, with carefully developed proportions suitable for children’s movement.
Development Focus: Knit structure | Stretch & recovery | Neckline | Cuffs | Button placement & durability

