VARELLO
Contemporary Luxury Menswear
Studio Nayéh Concept Project
Product Development | Pattern Development | Sampling & Fit Validation | Technical Development | Sourcing | Manufacturing
THE PROJECT
VARELLO is a contemporary luxury menswear concept developed around precision, proportion and understated sophistication
The collection explores refined tailoring and elevated wardrobe essentials, combining structured silhouettes
with considered materials and functional construction
The objective was to create garments that feel distinctly luxurious without relying on excessive detailing,
allowing cut, fabric, fit and construction to define the collection
PROJECT OVERVIEW
NUMBER OF STYLES
SIX
CATEGORY
MENSWEARPOSITIONING
LUXURY MENSWEARDEVELOPMENT
PORTUGAL
THE BRIEF
The objective was to create a premium menswear collection that felt:
Refined but effortless | Structured without being restrictive | Contemporary without becoming trend-driven
Commercially viable | Cohesive across the collection | Suitable for premium production
The collection was developed around tailored proportions, natural fabrics and precise construction, with each garment designed to function independently while contributing to a coherent wardrobe
OUR APPROACH
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The collection was defined as a six-style luxury menswear capsule balancing tailored, relaxed and layered silhouettes.
We established:
+ Product specifications: Tailored jacket, relaxed trouser, structured overshirt, premium shirt, knit polo and tailored outer layer.
+ Silhouette direction: Clean tailoring, controlled volume and relaxed contemporary proportions.
+ Garment proportions: Shoulder width, jacket length, sleeve length, trouser rise, leg volume and overall body balance.
+ Functional requirements: Movement, comfort, layering, pocket placement and everyday wearability.
+ Construction direction: Tailored construction, structured collars, set-in sleeves, waistband construction and clean internal finishing.
+ Design detailing: Lapel proportions, cuffs, collars, pockets, closures, vents and edge treatments developed according to each style.
+ Production intent: A premium menswear collection designed for repeatable, commercially consistent manufacturing.
This established the technical product brief before pattern development.
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Material development focused on achieving the correct balance of structure, drape, handle and durability across the collection.
We established:
+ Fabric composition: Natural and blended qualities selected according to the construction and intended use of each garment.
+ Fabric weight: GSM appropriate to tailoring, shirting, layering and outerwear requirements.
+ Drape & handle: Controlled drape for trousers and shirts, with greater body and stability for tailored pieces.
+ Dimensional stability: Shrinkage, relaxation and fabric behaviour assessed before pattern finalisation.
+ Surface behaviour: Suitability for pressing, seam construction and finished garment appearance.
+ Interfacing compatibility: Supporting materials selected to provide structure without unnecessarily stiffening the garment.
+ Material compatibility: Linings, buttons, zips, thread, interlinings and other components selected according to the specific construction.
This established the material parameters required for pattern and sample development.
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Patterns were developed around the specific fit and construction requirements of contemporary menswear.
We established:
+ Menswear fit blocks: Core blocks developed for the intended silhouette and proportion.
+ Ease: Controlled wearing ease to provide comfort while maintaining the intended silhouette.
+ Body shaping: Chest, shoulder, waist, hip and torso shaping developed according to each garment.
+ Pattern balance: Front, back, shoulder and side-seam balance established for correct garment hang.
+ Grain direction: Pattern orientation controlled according to fabric structure and garment construction.
+ Tailoring details: Lapel shape, collar construction, sleeve pitch, pocket positioning, vents, waistband and fastening positions incorporated into the patterns.
This created the base patterns required for physical sampling and fit validation.
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Physical samples were used to validate the relationship between pattern, fabric, construction and fit.
We assessed:
+ Fit & ease: Chest, shoulder, waist, hip, sleeve and trouser balance.
+ Proportion: Garment length, jacket balance, sleeve length, trouser rise and leg volume.
+ Garment balance: Front-to-back balance, shoulder positioning and overall hang.
+ Construction: Seam performance, collar behaviour, sleeve setting, waistband construction and fastening placement.
+ Fabric behaviour: Drape, relaxation, recovery, pressing response and distortion.
+ Sample corrections: Pattern and measurement adjustments recorded and incorporated before technical finalisation.
This validated the garment before production documentation.
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Once the samples were validated, the approved garments were translated into production-ready technical documentation.
We established:
+ Final CAD patterns: Corrected digital patterns reflecting the approved samples.
+ Size grading: Graded size ranges with consistent proportional increments.
+ A0 layouts: Plotter-ready digital pattern layouts.
+ Measurement specifications: Final measurements and tolerances based on validated samples.
+ Construction specifications: Seams, hems, collars, cuffs, pockets, closures and internal finishing documented by style.
+ BOM & consumption: Materials, components and final fabric requirements documented.
+ Manufacturing specifications: Construction sequence, machinery requirements and estimated operation timings.
This converted the validated garments into a complete technical reference for production.
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Sourcing was developed around the individual construction requirements of each garment.
We established:
+ Tailoring fabrics: Structured qualities selected to maintain clean silhouettes and dimensional stability.
+ Shirting fabrics: Lightweight woven qualities selected according to hand feel, breathability and construction requirements.
+ Linings: Appropriate lining qualities selected according to garment structure and movement.
+ Interlinings: Fusible and structural components selected according to the required support.
+ Buttons & fastenings: Components selected for durability, proportion and overall garment aesthetic.
+ Labels & trims: Brand labels, care labels and supporting trims selected according to the final garment requirements.
+ Production suitability: Materials assessed for availability, usable width, minimum quantities, repeatability and manufacturing compatibility.
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Manufacturing was planned around the different construction requirements of each menswear garment.
We established:
+ Tailored construction: Controlled assembly of jackets and structured garments, including shoulder, collar, lapel and internal construction.
+ Shirt construction: Precise collar, cuff, placket and seam construction with clean internal finishing.
+ Trouser construction: Waistband, fly, pocket, rise and leg construction developed around the intended fit and proportion.
+ Sleeve construction: Sleeve pitch and setting controlled to maintain correct movement and garment balance.
+ Internal finishing: Seams, facings, linings and internal components finished according to garment type.
+ Pressing: Construction-specific pressing used to establish shape and maintain clean tailoring lines.
+ Quality control: Measurements, symmetry, seam quality, component placement, pressing and final finishing checked against the approved samples and technical specifications.
This ensured that each garment could move into production with a construction process appropriate to its fabric, silhouette and intended finish.
THE RESULT
The Varello concept demonstrates a complete development pathway:
CONCEPT
|
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
|
PATTERN DEVELOPMENT
|
SAMPLING
|
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT
|
SOURCING
|
MANUFACTURING
|
QUALITY CONTROL
|
DELIVERY
|
CONCEPT | PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT | PATTERN DEVELOPMENT | SAMPLING | TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENT | SOURCING | MANUFACTURING | QUALITY CONTROL | DELIVERY |
THE COLLECTION
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A contemporary tailored jacket balancing clean structure with a relaxed modern fit.
Development focus:
Shoulder balance | Lapel construction | Sleeve pitch | Chest shaping | Pocket placement | Internal structure -
A refined trouser combining traditional tailoring with a contemporary relaxed proportion.
Development focus:
Rise | Hip balance | Leg volume | Waistband construction | Fly construction | Pocket placement -
A refined everyday shirt developed around precise proportions and elevated finishing.
Development focus:
Collar construction | Shoulder balance | Sleeve length | Cuff construction | Placket | Hem finish -
A versatile layer positioned between shirting and tailoring.
Development focus:
Body volume | Shoulder construction | Collar | Pocket development | Button placement | Hem balance -
A refined knit-inspired polo designed to bridge casual and tailored dressing.
Development focus:
Neck opening | Body proportion | Sleeve balance | Knit recovery | Cuff construction | Shape retention -
A clean outerwear silhouette designed to complete the VARELLO wardrobe.
Development focus:
Outer volume | Shoulder construction | Sleeve proportion | Closure system | Pocket placement | Internal finishing

